TAJ MAHAL—IMPRESSIONS

∙ WHAT WE DID/SAW/EXPERIENCED

DAY 1 (3/26/12)

          ∙ We spent this day traveling from the southwest coast of India to the north central region more than 1,295 miles away -- along with two other ladies from the ship.

          ∙ Upon arriving in Mangalore, we had to meet immigration officials at 7 a.m., so I got very little sleep.  We disembarked about 8 a.m. and immediately noticed more men with guns and the beginning of what would be a country full of free-ranging animals!  We headed for the airport to catch an 11 a.m. flight to Delhi - the 8th largest metropolitan area in the world.  To avoid paying the high cost ($4,000/each) that HAL charges to see the Taj, I planned my own trip (which cost app. $800-1,000 each).  The other ladies joined in our plans.  Several other people from the ship were also traveling independently.  Some spent less time in Agra (on HAL, 1.5 hours; others 5-6 hours), but went on to Jaipur (they also had tours in Delhi).  We had two nights and one full day in Agra instead.  My focus was on seeing the Taj Mahal!

                    ∙ A couple days before we left, the ladies joining us said they wanted to see Jaipur too (which was not possible) and pointed out that others had a detailed, professional-looking itinerary.  I had booked with Indian Holiday Pvt. Ltd., which provided a basic itinerary by e-mail.  Moments after leaving the ship, they complained that I hadn’t arranged for a pick-up at the dock – we had to walk a couple long blocks to exit the dock, where we grabbed a cab to the airport.  I didn’t know I was their travel agent!
                    ∙ En route to the airport, they complained about the way I looked and dressed – telling me that I was going to get “shot” and/or “raped” because I didn’t have my shoulders covered.  I was sitting in the car, wearing a long dress, which covered my knees (and then some).  I also had a small jacket to cover my shoulders when needed.  I thought this was reasonable choice, considering the forecast of over 100 degree heat!  It’s not like Bill and I could ever hide the fact that we’re from “out of town”.  Men and women routinely smiled at me and said hello.  So much unnecessary “drama” . . . aye.

          ∙ The flight from Mangalore to Delhi took app. 3.5 hours by air, plus a 1-hour layover in Mumbai.  We could see the massive number of Mumbai slums from the airplane.  Recall the movie, “Slum Dog Millionaire”?  We met an interesting Indian physician with the World Health Organization on the plane, who was traveling to Delhi to help devise a health care plan for his country.  We asked a number of questions, e.g., would I get “shot” or “raped” for not covering my shoulders.  He laughed at the idea and said that rule had gone out 30 years ago, at least in the big cities (e.g., Mumbai, Delhi).  He suggested doing so in the smaller towns, though.  He also told us what was safe to eat and drink, and what was not.  I asked why his country is so poor, and he said that 3 percent of the people have all of the money (i.e., the virtual absence of a middle class . . . a cautionary tale for others).

          ∙ Upon arriving in Delhi at about 3:30 p.m., we were told the guide’s representative would meet us “at the airport”.  It didn’t say where at the airport.  They weren’t where we exited, or at baggage claim.  Bill finally located the driver outside.  They had us walk a ways to a nice SUV, which was newer and nicer than the vehicles we’ve had on many previous tours.  It had comfortable, spacious seats and air conditioning that worked well.  I was, frankly, surprised how nice the vehicle was, given all I’d been told about India.
          ∙ One of the ladies with us had all kinds of ideas about things she wanted to see in Delhi, but Delhi wasn’t on our itinerary.  The things she wanted to see weren’t on the way to Agra, either.  So we made our way in what would be a 5-hour drive from Delhi to Agra, but turned into 7 hours due to stops so the ladies could shop (and I could smoke), and so we could eat dinner.  Heavy traffic, people and even farm animals peppered the streets in a scene that is uniquely “India”.  We could have taken the high-speed train (only 2 hours), but would have missed the fascinating countryside along the way.

          ∙ Finally, at about 11 p.m., we checked into Jaypee Palace Hotel, a 5-star hotel near the Taj, with its own (2-lane) bowling alley (among other leisure and other amenities)!  Hotel staff were extremely attentive and kind and even told me how pretty I was!  In this instance, flattery was nice (a far cry from getting “shot” or “raped” because I’m blonde – and from America!”)

 

DAY 2 (3/27/12)

          ∙ We spent this day touring the Taj Mahal and other nearby sights . . . among other things.
          ∙ Our itinerary called for us to be picked up after breakfast to tour the Taj, Red Fort and Itmad-ud-Daula’s Tomb, but the other ladies insisted that we see the Taj at sunrise.  Someone on the ship had told them to go then, so they were deaf to any suggestion to the contrary.  So I’d had two nights in a row with only about 4 hours sleep . . . that was my problem.  I relented and “went along”.
          ∙ We had to be up at 5:15 a.m. to be picked up at 5:45 a.m.!  I had dreamed of seeing the Taj Mahal, but ended up doing so while exhausted and feeling terrible.  I mustered a smile here and there while gazing at the amazing structures, inspired by love.  I wish so much I hadn’t planned and waited so long for this -- only to see it half asleep.

          ∙ After exiting the complex, our guide was trying to lead us to our car, but one the ladies decided to stop at a nearby shop (and to remain there for a long time, while everyone else waited).  We were being harassed by street vendors, as the guide tried his best to get us down the street toward the car.  But we couldn’t get there without the last person.  When we got to the car, I wanted a cigarette since it’d been about 3 hours since I had one last – but they didn’t want to wait for me for a few minutes.  We took in a few more “sights” of Agra en route back to our hotel (for a breakfast break).

          ∙ I’d had enough “fun” at this point and returned to my room, feeling quite “grouchy”.  I uploaded and organized my photos, and went to sleep!  Bill told the guide to take the ladies wherever they wanted to go without us.  I got a couple hours sleep and then got to bowl 3 games!  We spent a couple hours in the afternoon drinking beer, bowling and eating some potato chips that they’d brought us – there was finally something “normal” about our universe.  It was fun (and therapeutic)!

          ∙ The others returned to get us (apparently, they’d tried once earlier, too).  They had, to their credit, decided to wait before visiting Red Fort until they “retrieved” us.  We walked all over this additional amazing structure and shot some more pictures . . .

          ∙ Next, we proceeded to see the back side of the Taj, at sunset.  It was cooler and less crowded, sightseeing so early and so late in the day – that was the up-side.  The down side:  to bring you this post, I’m looking at my third night in a row, without enough sleep.

          ∙ Then, we stopped at two more places for the others to shop some more before returning to our hotel for dinner and then rest.  We were also supposed to see Itmad-ud-Daula’s Tomb and Fatehpur Sikri (an old deserted town of the Mughal Dynasty), but there was no time . . . overall, the itinerary wasn’t well defined by Indian Holiday.  Its flexibility would have worked better for a couple than a party of four or more.  We also paid for a guide for two days, but there was only time to tour one day.  I cannot, therefore, recommend this tour company.  Perhaps they’ll change my mind in Mumbai – but I’ll probably be too tired to enjoy that, either.  Lack of sleep has a spiraling effect.
          ∙ Tomorrow, our driver picks us up at 7 a.m. to return us to Delhi for our flight to Mumbai.  Stay tuned for Mumbai post later . . .
∙ THOUGHTS/IMPRESSIONS
          ∙ I got to see the Taj!  Unfortunately, I didn’t get to do it on my own terms (i.e., sleep in and relax, have a nice breakfast, then go see the sights in a leisurely manner – with absolutely no shopping).  But I’m blessed to have been here, nonetheless.  Life is full of shitty compromises . . . seemingly everywhere you go!
          ∙ Oh and, what was that saying:  “There’s nothing to fear but fear itself.”  I saw nothing to “fear” about India or its people, even if you’re “blonde” and fail to cover your shoulders or knees for a moment.  Out of respect and deference to their culture, I did so 95 percent of the time.  But I never once feared that anyone wanted to harm me in any way.  They wanted my money.  That was clear.  They sometimes gave quizzical looks (like, “who’s she?”).  Some were “stern” perhaps (even disapproving – hard to know).  But from my eyes, the Indian people were overwhelmingly kind, warm, decent, hard-working and just need a break (and better pollution control, clean water, habitable residences, animal control, etc.)!  I’m left wondering why the world doesn’t help more . . . it’s obvious to me that we haven’t done enough, at least for the 97% not holding all the cards.