∙ WHAT WE DID/SAW/EXPERIENCED
DAY 2
∙ We arose early, but at a more decent hour (8 a.m.) for a morning visit to Elephanta Caves. We got there by ferry boat, docked at the Gateway to India, near the Taj Mahal Hotel. En route, we saw our ship, Indian Naval ships and the island where India receives its crude oil from Iran. At “elephant island” (pet name), we found a jetty so long that a train was built to carry visitors. Elephanta features 7th century rock-cut cave temples, dedicated to the Hindu Lord Shiva. Situated atop a hill, they require a difficult climb up 120 or so stone steps, in the heat and humidity. These fascinating caves were worth the effort, even if we needed to stop a couple times to catch our breath! I took photos as Bill immersed himself in the guide’s detailed account of the historical background of the place, including the “story” behind each stone carving. We also saw some cute dogs and monkeys (check out the mamma monkeys with their babies)! The boat ride provided a welcome cool-down, as we traversed the greenish-brown, polluted waters off Mumbai’s coast. The air didn’t wreak like it did in Agra. It was still polluted, but my eyes no longer burned. We ran into several staff members from the ship, including their fabulous and fun spa staff, at the Caves. I had a great time talking to Ivana (nail lady) on the way back.
∙ We spent the second half of the day and evening on a planned city tour, including stops at:
∙ Victoria Terminus and a nearby Catholic church
∙ Dobi Ghat (sp?) (a huge outdoor laundry, where they wash about 1 million pieces per day, entirely by hand and without electricity, for about 20 cents per item)
∙ Mani Bhavan (an inspiring museum and former residence of Mahatma Gandhi).
∙ Chowpatty Beach
∙ Banganga (a large pool of “holy water” from the Ganges River, surrounded by small temples and stadium-like seating)
∙ Crowford Market (another large, hot, chaotic city market) – a good site to skip, unless you like huge crowds, unbearable heat and men following you while eyeing your camera. The best thing we saw here was this adorable little girl, out shopping with her mom and dad.
∙ Prince of Wales Museum (we’d paid our guide for all entrance fees, but they didn’t pay the extra $2 for the right to shoot photographs; in fact, we overpaid entrance fees by $18 per couple). Again, I do not recommend hiring Indian Holiday Pvt., due to its organizational problems and apparent lack of honesty. (The guides and drivers are great, but the company is poorly managed.)
∙ Colahba – yet more shopping. After buying a new dress and shoes for our upcoming Indian-themed formal, Bill and I found a local restaurant and sat down for a local beer (Kingfisher – very good – unlike the similarly named airline).
∙ Khyber - a famous local restaurant, for dinner. The restaurant is gorgeous inside, but the food is “different”. I kept thinking, “we’re almost out of India. We’re almost out of India.” I’d been told not to give money to children begging, but we were about to leave, and I was curious. A young girl was asking for money, and there was no one else nearby. I handed her $2 and said, “only you”. She walked some distance away, and I saw her waving her money around and pointing back at me (as if to say, “her, I got it from her”). We didn’t get “swarmed”, but three or four other children did come over, also asking for money. We drove away, but it was interesting to see how this “worked”. And I liked saying “yes” to just one, when I’d had to say “no” for four days. Kids – put the money in your pocket and say nothing! Then, people won’t fear giving you some.
∙ THOUGHTS/IMPRESSIONS
∙ The sign at the dock says, “Incredible India”. I couldn’t agree more! It was interesting and incredible for all sorts of reasons. It was hard to come here, and we’ve never been so glad to be back on the ship . . .
∙ In India, men have all the leisure time, as the women do most of the work. Mothers ply their children to beg in the streets. Colleges abound throughout the country, yet more than 65 percent still live in slums because they cannot get good jobs. The 3 percent with the money seem to ignore their plight. India remains embattled in a 10-year conflict with Pakistan, and its military resources are strained. Uniformed officers and security guards check vehicles for bombs and screen bags and people at hotels, sights and other public and/or sensitive locations. Yet, they always made us feel safe and welcome – save, perhaps, for those dock agents!
∙ The oddest thing to this American girl was the absence of hamburgers at McDonald’s (the quintessential American hamburger joint)! What? Would you have a KFC with no chicken!? Holy cow! (cows and buffalos are sacred in the Hindu religion). Their food is, therefore, characterized as “veg” or “non veg” (meaning chicken and fish, and sometimes lamb too). It’s a strange “old” world for us “new worlders” . . . We were careful not to eat prohibited items (e.g., salad), but left “affected” by the local cuisine anyway, and the lack of sleep. (Bring medicine if you come here!) My first meal back on the ship wasn’t inspiring, either: a “hot” roast beef sandwich, where only the croissant was smashed in a heater until it was hard; the beef and cheese remained cold. Training – training – training. Oy.
∙ I have purchased only one t-shirt on my journey thus far. It says, “Be the change you wish to see in the world.” Mahatma Gandhi. India needs another “Gandhi” to carry the torch further. For that matter, we in California (and in places around the world) depend on business and government leaders to be guided by a strong moral compass. (Recall the greedy traders and officers of ENRON, who manipulated California’s deregulation of the energy market to bilk consumers while making themselves rich?). Gandhi was an idealist and a rebel, for a worthy cause. He was my kind of leader! May the whole world find many more like him . . .
∙ For now, it’s time to say “bye bye, Mumbai.”
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