Friday, March 30, 2012

CRUISING THROUGH DANGER/THE MIDDLE EAST (3/30-4/4/12)!

File:Gulf of Aden map.pngTHE VOLATILE AND OFTEN DANGEROUS MIDDLE EAST
           ∙ After leaving Mumbai, we spend 6 days cruising the expansive Arabian Sea until it narrows into the Gulf of Aden and then turns into the Red Sea
           ∙ This is our longest jaunt at sea – aside from the 7-day Atlantic Crossing home
           ∙ Of course, Osama bin Laden was buried in the North Arabian Sea, so the water's polluted
           ∙ The Gulf of Aden leads to the Red Sea and the important Suez Canal, which connects the Red Sea to the Mediterranean Sea and allows water transportation between Europe and Asia without navigating around Africa
∙ The Gulf of Aden is known as “Pirate Alley” due to the large amount of pirate activity in the area

          ∙ We'll be cruising right through the MIDDLE EAST (i.e., Western Asia to the north and North Africa to the South)
                    ∙ Western Asia includes Turkey, Iran, Kuwait, Bahrain, Qatar, Untied Arab Emirates, Oman, Yemen, Saudi Arabia, Jordan, Iraq, Syria, Lebanon, Israel, Palestinian Territories and Cyprus – Georgia, Armenia, Azerbaijan, Afganistan and Pakistan are also sometimes included
                    ∙ North Africa includes Algeria, Egypt, Libya, Morocco, Sudan, Tunisia, and Western Sahara
                    ∙ The Sahara has effectively separated Northern Africa from the rest of Africa; as civilizations to the north migrated across the Mediterranean, the culture of North Africa became more closely tied to Southwestern Asia and Europe; the Islamic influence in the area is significant
                    ∙ When we enter the Gulf of Aden, we'll be sandwiched between Yemen and Saudi Arabia to the north and Somalia to the south.  I address these three places below.

          ∙ (REAL) PIRATES, TERRORISTS AND “ALLIES”
                     Yemen protest.jpgThe Republic of Yemen and 2011 Yemeni Uprising
                               ∙ In February and March 2011, an uprising against the government began, with many protestors demanding the resignation of the current leadership, particularly President Ali Abdullah Salah
                       ∙ This was part of the "Arab Spring", a revolutionary wave of demonstrations and protests occurring in the Arab world
                       ∙ Since December 2010, there have been revolutions in Tunisia and Egypt, civil war in Libya and Syria, civil uprisings in Bahraina and Yemen, and protests in 11 other countries
                       ∙ A major slogan of the demonstrations has been, "The people want to bring down the regime."
                       ∙ On 2/2/11, President Salah announced that he would not run for reelection in 2013 and would not pass power to his son
                       ∙ Protests continued and were followed by a 6/3/11 bombing of the Presidential compound; the next day, Vice President Abd al-Rab Mansur al-Hadi took over as acting President
                       ∙ Salah flew to Saudi Arabia to be treated, and Yemeni officials insisted his absence was only temporary; the government rejected demands for Yemen's first-ever democratic elections
                      ∙ Yemen is said to have more than 60 million guns, and the average Yemeni woman bears 5 children 

The Kingdom of Saudi Arabia:
           ∙ Saudi Arabia is the largest country in the Middle East and an Islamic monarchy, ruled by the Saudi royal family (though the King must comply with Islamic law and the Quran)
          ∙ No political parties or national elections are permitted (but there are municipal elections)
          ∙ It has the world’s largest oil reserves and is the leading exporter of oil
          ∙ It’s criticized for its poor record of human rights treatment of religious and political minorities, and women
          ∙ Those arrested are often not informed of the crime of which they are accused or given access to a lawyer
          ∙ Prisoners are subject to abusive treatment and torture if they don’t confess
          ∙ At trial, there’s a presumption of guilt, and the accused is often unable to examine witnesses and evidence or present a legal defense
                    ∙ Most trials are held in secret
                    ∙ Punishments include beheading, stoning, amputation and lashing – there were 345 public beheadings between 2007 and 2010!
                    ∙ There is no religious freedom; Islam is mandated, and all churches are Muslim
                    ∙ The death penalty can be imposed for not only murder, but also rape, armed robbery, repeated drug use, apostasy (abandoning their religion), adultery, witchcraft and sorcery – off with Harry Potter’s head!!
File:Dira Square.JPG      ∙ Almost 45% of their children are facing some sort of abuse or domestic violence
      ∙ There is trafficking of women and widespread inbreeding due to the tradition of encouraging marriage between close relatives
      ∙ Women are treated like children, requiring a “guardian” to make decisions for her; in court, the testimony of 1 man is equivalent to 2 women
      ∙ Polygamy is permitted for men, who can marry a girl who’s only 10; men have the unilateral right to divorce; women can only divorce with her husband’s consent or judicial consent if her husband has harmed her
                    ∙ Females receive half the inheritance a man does
                    ∙ Up until a few months ago, women couldn’t drive.  They must still sit in specially-designated sections in restaurants, and they must wear a black cloak covering their entire body and hair
                    ∙ No law protects Saudi women from domestic violence
                    ∙ On 9/25/11, King Abdullah decreed that women will, for the 1st time, have the right to vote and run in local elections, starting in 2015
                    ∙ Alcoholic beverages are prohibited, and there are no movie theaters
                    ∙ When Iraq invaded Kuwait in 1990, SA joined the anti-Iraq coalition and King Fahd, fearing reprisals from Iraq, allowed American and coalition soldiers to be stationed in SA; this led to an increase in Islamic terrorism in SA and in Western countries by Saudi nationals – the 9/11 attacks being the most prominent example since Osama bin Laden and 15 of the 19 hijackers were from SA
                    ∙ They subsequently adopted a policy, distancing themselves from the U.S. and refusing to join the US in invading Iraq in 2003
                    ∙ Still, terrorist activity increased dramatically, and they have taken more vigorous action to deal with the origins of Islamic terrorism
                    ∙ King Abdullah is against the current protests and revolutions affecting the Arab world.
File:Somalian Piracy Threat Map 2010.png          The Somali Republic:
                    ∙ Where real pirates live . . . with positively no relation to the happiest place on Earth
                    ∙ The Somali Civil War is ongoing and broke out in 1991, leading to destabilization
                    ∙ Its Transitional Federal Government lost substantial control to rebel forces and declared a state of emergency in June 2009
                    ∙ The UN, led by the US, attempted missions to provide humanitarian relief between 1993 and 1995, but withdrew after several gun battles in Mogadishu resulted in the death of Pakistani and US soldiers: most in the Battle of Mogadishu (as portrayed in the movie, “Black Hawk Down”)
          ∙ Since the mid-2000s, the conflict has taken a militant Islamic tone
          ∙ In 1/07, the US militarily interceded with airstrikes against Islamic positions, to catch or kill Al Qaeda operatives
          ∙ When Ethiopian soldiers (there to intervene and aid the fragile government) withdrew in 12/08, the southern half of the country rapidly fell into the hands of radical Islamic rebels
             ∙ 300,000 to 400,000 have died in the conflict – with the UN calling the killing of civilians in this civil war genocide
          ∙ Somalia is one of the poorest and most violent states in the world; Mogadishu is rated the 4th most dangerous city in the world
          ∙ Making things worse, 2011 saw their worst drought and famine in 60 years, but Islamic militants have banned delivery of relief supplies
          ∙ The significant problem with piracy emerged due to the collapse of governmental authority due to the war
 
          ∙ COMBATTING THE PIRACY PROBLEM, AND ASSURING A SAFE PASSAGE FROM INDIA TO EGYPT
                    ∙ In 8/08, a multinational coalition established a Maritime Security Patrol Area (MSPA) within the Gulf of Aden to combat the piracy problem at sea, and the autonomous region of Puntland increased policing efforts on land – these efforts reduced pirate attacks in the Gulf of Aden from 86 to 33 per year
                    ∙ Our ship’s Captain wrote to the passengers, informing us that “the likelihood of us being attacked is extremely low”, because there are many easier targets out there (i.e., “ships which transit these areas, many at slower speeds and with lower freeboards [distance from the waterline to the deck]”). 
                              ∙ As a defensive maneuver, we’re making a “high-speed run” (over 20 knots) across the ocean and Gulf of Aden.  We’ll arrive early in Safaga Egypt at 4 p.m. on April 4th rather than 7 a.m. on April 5th.
                              ∙ They’ve also rigged the lower levels with razor wire, which would cut anyone attempting to board.
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                    ∙ Our ship will be reporting to, and tracked by, UKMTO (United Kingdom Maritime Trade Organization), which coordinates the coalition warships in the area assigned to anti-piracy operations.  Warships will be in our vicinity.
                    ∙ Through the Gulf of Aden, we’ll remain in a IRTC (Internationally Recommended Transit Corridor)
                    ∙ A close radar watch will be kept on the Bridge, and extra security guards will be rotating 24-hour “anti-piracy watch”
                    ∙ The ship has LRAD’s (long-range acoustic devices) and charged water hoses, which they practiced using a few days ago.
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                   ∙ If there’s a suspicious vessel nearby, or an attempted boarding, an alarm will sound and an announcement will be made, with certain procedures in place which I won’t elaborate upon here.  In short, it’s a scary place out there, but we should be fine.

MUMBAI, INDIA—IMPRESSIONS (DAY 2, 3/29/12)


WHAT WE DID/SAW/EXPERIENCED
DAY 2
          ∙ We arose early, but at a more decent hour (8 a.m.) for a morning visit to Elephanta Caves.  We got there by ferry boat, docked at the Gateway to India, near the Taj Mahal Hotel.  En route, we saw our ship, Indian Naval ships and the island where India receives its crude oil from Iran.  At “elephant island” (pet name), we found a jetty so long that a train was built to carry visitors.  Elephanta features 7th century rock-cut cave temples, dedicated to the Hindu Lord Shiva.  Situated atop a hill, they require a difficult climb up 120 or so stone steps, in the heat and humidity.  These fascinating caves were worth the effort, even if we needed to stop a couple times to catch our breath!  I took photos as Bill immersed himself in the guide’s detailed account of the historical background of the place, including the “story” behind each stone carving.  We also saw some cute dogs and monkeys (check out the mamma monkeys with their babies)! The boat ride provided a welcome cool-down, as we traversed the greenish-brown, polluted waters off Mumbai’s coast. The air didn’t wreak like it did in Agra. It was still polluted, but my eyes no longer burned.  We ran into several staff members from the ship, including their fabulous and fun spa staff, at the Caves. I had a great time talking to Ivana (nail lady) on the way back.
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          ∙ We spent the second half of the day and evening on a planned city tour, including stops at:
                    ∙ Victoria Terminus and a nearby Catholic church
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                    ∙ Dobi Ghat (sp?) (a huge outdoor laundry, where they wash about 1 million pieces per day, entirely by hand and without electricity, for about 20 cents per item)
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                    ∙ Mani Bhavan (an inspiring museum and former residence of Mahatma Gandhi).
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                    ∙ Chowpatty Beach
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                    ∙ Banganga (a large pool of “holy water” from the Ganges River, surrounded by small temples and stadium-like seating)
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                    ∙ Crowford Market (another large, hot, chaotic city market) – a good site to skip, unless you like huge crowds, unbearable heat and men following you while eyeing your camera.  The best thing we saw here was this adorable little girl, out shopping with her mom and dad.
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                    ∙ Prince of Wales Museum (we’d paid our guide for all entrance fees, but they didn’t pay the extra $2 for the right to shoot photographs; in fact, we overpaid entrance fees by $18 per couple).  Again, I do not recommend hiring Indian Holiday Pvt., due to its organizational problems and apparent lack of honesty.  (The guides and drivers are great, but the company is poorly managed.)
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                    ∙ Colahba – yet more shopping.  After buying a new dress and shoes for our upcoming Indian-themed formal, Bill and I found a local restaurant and sat down for a local beer (Kingfisher – very good – unlike the similarly named airline).
                    ∙ Khyber - a famous local restaurant, for dinner.  The restaurant is gorgeous inside, but the food is “different”.  I kept thinking, “we’re almost out of India.  We’re almost out of India.”  I’d been told not to give money to children begging, but we were about to leave, and I was curious. A young girl was asking for money, and there was no one else nearby. I handed her $2 and said, “only you”. She walked some distance away, and I saw her waving her money around and pointing back at me (as if to say, “her, I got it from her”). We didn’t get “swarmed”, but three or four other children did come over, also asking for money. We drove away, but it was interesting to see how this “worked”. And I liked saying “yes” to just one, when I’d had to say “no” for four days.  Kids – put the money in your pocket and say nothing!  Then, people won’t fear giving you some.
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THOUGHTS/IMPRESSIONS
          ∙ The sign at the dock says, “Incredible India”. I couldn’t agree more! It was interesting and incredible for all sorts of reasons. It was hard to come here, and we’ve never been so glad to be back on the ship . . .
          ∙ In India, men have all the leisure time, as the women do most of the work.  Mothers ply their children to beg in the streets.  Colleges abound throughout the country, yet more than 65 percent still live in slums because they cannot get good jobs.  The 3 percent with the money seem to ignore their plight.  India remains embattled in a 10-year conflict with Pakistan, and its military resources are strained.  Uniformed officers and security guards check vehicles for bombs and screen bags and people at hotels, sights and other public and/or sensitive locations.  Yet, they always made us feel safe and welcome – save, perhaps, for those dock agents!
          ∙ The oddest thing to this American girl was the absence of hamburgers at McDonald’s (the quintessential American hamburger joint)!  What?  Would you have a KFC with no chicken!?  Holy cow! (cows and buffalos are sacred in the Hindu religion).  Their food is, therefore, characterized as “veg” or “non veg” (meaning chicken and fish, and sometimes lamb too).  It’s a strange “old” world for us “new worlders” . . .  We were careful not to eat prohibited items (e.g., salad), but left “affected” by the local cuisine anyway, and the lack of sleep.  (Bring medicine if you come here!)  My first meal back on the ship wasn’t inspiring, either:  a “hot” roast beef sandwich, where only the croissant was smashed in a heater until it was hard; the beef and cheese remained cold.  Training – training – training.  Oy.
          ∙ I have purchased only one t-shirt on my journey thus far. It says, “Be the change you wish to see in the world.” Mahatma Gandhi. India needs another “Gandhi” to carry the torch further. For that matter, we in California (and in places around the world) depend on business and government leaders to be guided by a strong moral compass. (Recall the greedy traders and officers of ENRON, who manipulated California’s deregulation of the energy market to bilk consumers while making themselves rich?). Gandhi was an idealist and a rebel, for a worthy cause.  He was my kind of leader!  May the whole world find many more like him . . .
          ∙ For now, it’s time to say “bye bye, Mumbai.”
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