BYE BYE BAGGIES!



Today, Fed Ex came by to pick up the sixteen (16) items we have been packing over the last five (5) months for our world cruise.  This included two (2) wardrobe boxes full of suits, dresses, shirts, shoe boxes, etc., a box containing our huge World Map (with pins to mark each new port), a photo scanner (to upload photos not taken on our own cameras), a box of legal books for study during "down" times, my bowling ball bag, and several large suitcases.  (We went bowling last night, since it was our "last chance" for a while ... we're checking into bowling alleys in Rio and Singapore and plan to check out that alley at the hotel in India!)
When the Fed Ex guy showed up around noon, he walked in, took a look at what we were shipping, and promptly walked right back out -- saying he'd be back later with a larger truck!  Pretty funny.  (Apparently, someone told him we were only shipping one bag.  Yeah, right!)  It's amazing how empty the room looks now that they're gone ...

There are only eight (8) days to go until we leave:
          Wed., 12/28
          Thurs., 12/29
          Fri., 12/30 - last court hearing (yeah!)
          Sat., 12/31 - New Year's Eve (party time)
          Sun., 1/1 - a day to sleep
          Mon., 1/2 - visit my Aunt who's visiting from Missouri
          Tues., 1/3 - dogs to vet; Sondra to dentist
          Wed., 1/4 - Sondra to hair lady; then cars to storage; then to Bon Voyage Party

At 6:30 a.m. on Thurs., 1/5, we fly to Ft. Lauderdale, where our Travel Agent has a Welcome Party and dinner planned.  How very exciting this all is ... if you're worried that I may never want to return, remember that I live in SAN DIEGO (the greatest place on Earth)!!

SPECIAL EVENTS GALORE!



If you’ve ever regretted missing your high school prom (as I did), then here is the cure: a world cruise! Beyond the "ordinary" five-course dinners available each evening in the dining room, Holland America has planned eighteen (18) FORMAL NIGHTS for our (112-day) "Grand World Voyage":
          1 - January 8^th: Captain’s Welcome Reception
          2 - January 14^th: Black & Silver Ball (the 1^st Grand Ball in the Queen’s Lounge)
          3 - January 21^st: Copacabana Samba
          4 - January 26^th: Viva Las Vegas
          5 - January 31^st: Ice Blue Winter Ball (Antarctica’s splendor dance on board)
          6 - February 7^th: Captain Bligh’s Dinner
          7 - February 14^th: Valentine’s Day Hearts & Flowers Ball - in the Queen’s Lounge (after a special dinner at Pinnacle Grill, HAL’s upscale restaurant)
          8 - February 21^st or 23^rd: Mardi Gras
          9 - February 27^th: Many Leagues Under the Sea Ball (seafood delicacies) (we’ll miss this one, as we’re staying in Australia and flying from Sydney to Cairns)
          10 - March 7^th: Theme unknown
          11 - March 9^th: Indonesian Formal Night (colonial style formal)
          12 - March 17^th: St. Patrick’s Day
          13 - March 22^nd: Oriental Night
          14 - March 31^st: Maharadja & Maharani Night
          15 - April 7^th: 1,001 Arabian Nights (we’ll miss this one, too, as we’re staying in Egypt to see the pyramids, etc.)
          16 - April 14^th: Classic Formal Night (dress in "near-bygone style")
          17 - April 22^nd: Celebration Night & Dessert Extravaganza (Pastry Chef’s sweetest Grand Buffet imaginable)
          18 - April 26^th: Black & Gold Masked Ball (our final formal night; a classic Grand Ball in the Queen’s Lounge, with masks)

There is something to enthrall anyone longing to pull out that dusty ball gown or tux ... or to buy a new one! I bought dresses in silver, gold, blue, green and red, but I have no idea what I’ll wear for the Indian, Indonesian, Samba and Oriental nights. Nor do I understand what "near-bygone style" means. But there’s plenty of time to shop along the way .... Bill bought his first-ever tux, despite swearing he would "never" wear a tux. He even picked up silk ties to match my dresses and gowns! See, it’s never too late to celebrate life ...

If that weren't enough, there are numerous other THEME EVENTS, e.g.:
          January 11th:  South American Dinner (Latin American cuisine) - at Pinnacle Grill for $69/person

          January 29^th: Sommelier Dinner (gourmet food and wine pairings) - at Pinnacle Grill for $69/person
          February 5^th: Superbowl XLVI party - in the Queen’s Lounge - as we are cruising through the Chilean Fjords (I got a Denver Broncos jersey for the occasion!)
          February 6^th: Murder Mystery Dinner I - at Pinnacle Grill for $69/person
          February 16^th: French Dinner - at Pinnacle Grill for $69/person
          March 4^th: Chef’s Dinner - in the La Fontaine Dining Room
          March 7^th or 8^th: Indonesian Dinner (Kuta’s high-end Warung Indonesia on board) - at Pinnacle Grill for $69/person
          March 8^th: King Neptune Ceremony (event to commemorate a sailor’s first crossing of the equator)
          March 13^th: Murder Mystery Dinner II - at Pinnacle Grill for $69/person
          March 15^th: Lumpia Dinner and Sateh BBQ (Vietnamese spread) - on Lido Deck
          March 30^th: Indian Dinner (dahl, roti, rice, naan, etc.) - at Pinnacle Grill for $69/person
          April 17^th: Murder Mystery Dinner III - at Pinnacle Grill for $69/person
          April 18^th: Paella Fiesta (Spanish specialty turned into a dinner event) - on Lido Deck
          April 19^th: Bill’s birthday dinner - at Pinnacle Grill

In addition to all of this, for $129/person, we can join four other guests to participate in a "Chef’s Table" gourmet tasting dinner with the Executive Chef. It starts with French Champagne (isn’t that redundant?), followed by a tour of the ship’s galley during dinner operations, and a select six-course menu paired with premium wine for each course.

Well, that’s about "it". So you see, it’s never too late for the prom!

OFFICERS AND CREW

         

Remember "The Love Boat"? In this quintessential "American" television series – which aired from 1977 to 1986 – the lead actors held the roles of ship’s captain, doctor, bartender, purser, "cruise director" and photographer. Who else do we need on a floating city, after all?
          As it turns out, an actual cruise ship has a slightly different list of key officers and crew:
          Captain - Jonathan Mercer
          "Hotel" Manager - Henk J. Mensink
          Chief Engineer - Hans Bloks/Ian Taylor
          Chief Officers - Frisco Kramer/Gerd Teensma
          Cruise Director - Bruce Allen Scudder
          Guest Relations Manager - Christel A. Mensink
          Purser - Peter C. Wallis
          Chief Housekeeper - Chiv Charan
          Culinary Operations Manager - Bart Groeneveld
          Executive Chef - Bernie Rius
          Dining Room Manager - Tom Grindlay
          Beverage Manager - Willy Tubog
          LifeStylists - Danube Jacobs & a "stylist to be named later"
          Shore Excursions Manager - Irene Gruenwald
          Travel Guide - Barbara Heanni
          Hostess - Adele Scholtz

The Love Boat Crew

 So who’s the doctor? Bartender? Photographer? What, an engineer is more important than the guy making my Mai Tai’s and creating my lifetime photographic memories? Hem. Apparently, our priorities have now shifted to staying afloat and enjoying great food, great shore excursions and a clean room.  Who can argue with that, really?  I have no idea what the "lifestylists" will do for us, but if they were hair stylists, I'd be all for that (you make me look good; I'll take it from there)!
          Still, I willingly place my safety and my happiness in the hands of these individuals -- at least for the next four (4) months.  Let's hope we never need the ship’s doctor or engineer!

HOW TO CONTACT US FROM 1/5/12 THRU 4/28/12

To contact us between January 5, 2012 and April 28, 2012, here’s what you do:

E-MAIL: We’ll still have access to our regular e-mail accounts and will check in from time to time (don’t count on an immediate response).
          Bill: attparks@aol.com
          Sondra: sondra@ssslegal.com
As a back-up only, because there is a charge to us for this service, Holland America has set up our own CruisE-mail address for us to use. This is intended for people without an e-mail provider (not us). Our CruisE-mail addresses are:
          Bill: bparks6219@amsterdam.cruisemail.net
          Sondra: ssutherland6219@amsterdam.cruisemail.net

FACEBOOK/BLOG: We can also connect to the internet, hopefully on our phones and computers and, if not, through the ship’s Internet Café. So feel free to send us posts or messages on Facebook, or this blog.

TELEPHONE/TEXT: We will both have our cell phones with us, but only Sondra's Droid Global phone has international calling capability:  (760) 520-5711.  Sondra has also purchased phone cards, so she can return calls from the ship for app. $1.67/minute (just leave a message, and we'll call back).

If you can’t get through to any of these numbers and must reach us on board the ship, you can call (shore to ship) by dialing (866) 425-7447 – but it costs $16 per minute (a satellite tariff)! You’ll need (1) a credit card, (2) the ship’s name [ms Amsterdam], (3) our name, and (4) our stateroom number (6219).  You can also call the ms Amsterdam directly by dialing 011-870-324-437-011. Holland America also has these emergency phone numbers: (800) 628-4771 or (206) 286-3294.

SKYPE: Sondra can also be reached on Skype; my Skype address is "ssslegal".

FAX/MAIL: We can fax or mail from the ship, but you cannot send mail or faxes to us. We will communicate primarily by e-mail.

BACK HOME: Blizzard, Snowy and Frosty will be staying with, and cared for by, George (Moy) at my prior residence in Escondido.  We ask anyone who can to stop by and look in on them, and/or to at least give George a call from time to time to make sure everybody's okay (760/803-4254)!

THE QUEST BEGINS . . . IN 77 (LONG) DAYS!!

Let’s face it: geography is a challenge. As a kid, I thought that Moscow was in Canada . . . seriously! I wasn’t (that) stupid, just uninformed . . . oh well, it gave my dad quite a laugh!

Sometime later, I saw “Dead Poet’s Society”. Remember when Robin Williams had his students stand on his desk, so they could see the world from a different perspective? Remember how magical it was when you first looked out of an airplane window to see the world below? To understand where we “fit” in, we must see the world from a larger perspective.

I am blessed to begin this quest in 77 days:  on January 5, 2012!  But who's counting?

It starts with a flight to Ft. Lauderdale. The next day (January 6th), we board the ms Amsterdam of Holland America Line. I intend to conquer at least the “basics” of world geography during this journey. We will visit all seven (7) continents: Asia, Africa, North America, South America, Antarctica, Europe and Australia (Geography Lesson No. 1). Check off North America, since Stop 1 has us staying in Ft. Lauderdale. Six (6) continents, and tens of thousands of miles to go!

For each port, I will post a page identifying its land mass (whether a continent, an island nation or an island cluster) and sharing its distance from my home (San Diego, California) and other interesting, important, or amusing tid-bits. And, of course, I will post photos, fun images and stories as the cruise unfolds, too. Here we go . . . !!

SONDRA JOINS "THE LOVE BOAT"!!

IMMUNIZATIONS - OUCH!!

I thought shots were for kids and dogs! I’m 48 (oops 49), in good health (knock knock) and haven’t had a single shot since I was a kid! Then, I decided to hitch a ride on a cruise ship for 4 months to see the world!  And it was 2 shots in the left arm, 2 shots in the right arm, another shot in the left arm (5 total) - and Typhoid and Malaria pills to take later (along with other "travel meds", "just in case")!  This isn't the "fun" part of the cruise!!  But it beats getting a horrid disease ...

SAY, MY DOCTOR LOOKED KINDA LIKE THIS!

INFORMATION PROVIDED BY CRUISE LINE
          On Holland America’s web site, they tell us:  “International travelers can take a number of simple steps to avoid potential health problems before and during travel:
                     Contact your local physician ideally 4-6 weeks prior to departure.
                     It is important to receive current health information on the countries you plan to visit.
                     Obtain all necessary vaccinations and preventative medications. It is important to address any special needs.
                     Immunizations may be recommended or required for countries visited on your cruise itinerary. If you are traveling to (or transiting through) Africa or South America, for example, you may require a certificate of vaccination against yellow fever. This vaccination can be administered only by a state approved clinic.
                     It is also a good idea to bring along a record of your immunizations as requirements for immunizations may change."

FINDING A STATE-APPROVED CLINIC
          So I needed to find a "state approved clinic".  A general "Google" search for travel immunizations brought up a number of service providers in my area (San Diego), as well as a site for the County of San Diego’s Immunization Program. The County of San Diego’s Health & Human Services Agency does not provide travel vaccines. However, they directed us to a number of local fee-for-service “travel physicians”, who provide "comprehensive travel counseling". I was able to find someone there.

SEEING A “TRAVEL” PHYSICIAN AND RESEARCHING CDC REQUIREMENTS

          When I called for my doctor's appointment, I was taken aback when the lady asked me which vaccines I needed. How was I supposed to know? I was calling them for the “comprehensive travel counseling”. They told me they follow CDC guidelines, and I should go to the CDC’s web site to learn which vaccines I needed for the locations I would visit. Okay, fine.
          On the CDC’s web site, I learned that “CDC divides travel vaccines into 3 categories: routine, recommended, and required. See: http://wwwnc.cdc.gov/travel/page/vaccinations.htm . While your doctor will tell you which ones you should have [that’s what I thought, too], it’s best to be aware of them ahead of time.”  (I did receive the travel counseling at the appointment itself, after pointing out the unusual response when I called for the appointment.)
          • Routine: The CDC says, “Be sure that you and your family are up to date on your routine vaccinations. These vaccines are necessary for protection from diseases that are still common in many parts of the world even though they rarely occur in the United States. If you are not sure which vaccinations are routine, look at the schedules below.”
          Curious, I clicked on the link for “Recommended Adult Immunization Schedule – United States". This takes you to a sheet, “Vaccinations for Adults”. It lists different things, for different ages (19-49, 50-64, and 65 & older). I got (or considered) these shots:
                    • Influenza (flu): CDC says you need a dose every fall or winter. I’d never had one before, and my doctor didn’t insist, either (he said, “I’ll give it to you if you want it”). I decided to go ahead with it, since I’d be stuck on a ship for 4 months, where people have been known to get sick.✓ (This one stung the worst.)
                    • Pneumococcal: The vaccination page says you need 1-2 doses if you smoke cigarettes or have certain chronic medical conditions, or if you’re 65 or older and have never been vaccinated. I do smoke and thought this would be one I’d get, but the doctor said I didn’t need it - that the CDC says to only give to persons 65 or older. Who was I to argue?
                    • Tetanus, diphtheria, pertussis (whooping cough): CDC says get a 1-time dose of “Tdap” vaccine if younger than 65, or 65+ and have contact with an infant, are a healthcare worker, or simply want to be protected from whooping cough. It says you also need a Td booster dose every 10 years. So I got the Tdap vaccine.✓
                    • Other routine ones inapplicable. Each person should check the list for him/herself.
          • Recommended: Here’s where my own research, combined with speaking to the doctor, was very helpful. You can look up each country/destination on the CDC website here:
          http://wwwnc.cdc.gov/travel/destinations/list.htm


VACCINATION CERTIFICATE

          In addition to the routine vaccinations, the following are recommended for our travel destinations:
                    Hepatitis A, Hepatitis B and Typhoid: About 10 countries recommend these three. Many countries only recommend the Hep B. ✓
                    According to my doctor, Hep B is only transmitted through blood or sexual contact.  Since I'm not planning a sexual rendez vous or to share blood with any locals, I didn’t have to have it.  But the Hep A and Hep B can be combined into one shot/series, so I went ahead and got both. You don’t have to wait months for the series, either, because there’s an accelerated one, where you get the 2nd shot after 7 days and the 3rd/final shot after 3 weeks. The Typhoid comes in 4 small pills, which must remain refrigerated, and aren’t taken until 2 weeks before travel, one every other day for a week.
                     Add Polio booster w/IPV: India. ✓
                     Add Yellow Fever: Brazil and Argentina. ✓
                     Rabies: Several countries also recommend Rabies IF you’re a vet, live in a high-risk area or might be in direct contact with bats (or, in Indonesia, if you’ll be spending a lot of time outdoors, hiking, camping, biking) - I skipped
                     Several also recommend Japanese Encephalitis, e.g., Australia IF visiting Torres Straight or northern Australia, and Indonesia/Hong Kong/Vietnam/Singapore/Thailand/Sri Lanka IF visiting rural farming areas, or if there’s a known outbreak - I skipped

NO, I DON'T WANT TO!!

          • Required: According to the CDC, “The only vaccine required by International Health Regulations is yellow fever vaccination for travel to certain countries in sub-Saharan Africa and tropical South America.” (Since this can be dangerous for some people, e.g., older travelers, their doctors will need to complete the “Medical Contraindication to Vaccination” portion of the yellow “International Certificate of Vaccination”.)

MEDICATIONS
          In addition to the vaccines mentioned above, certain medications are recommended for our trip.
          • Malarone for Malaria: A prophylactic is required when traveling to countries where there is malaria. According to the CDC, malaria is a mosquito-borne disease, caused by a parasite. People with malaria often experience fever, chills and flu-like illness. Left untreated, they may develop severe complications and die. In 2008, an estimated 190 - 311 million cases of malaria occurred worldwide and 708,000 - 1,003,000 people died, most of them young children in sub-Saharan Africa.”  (What a tragedy - there's medication to prevent this!)

KILL THEM THERE MOSQUITOS!

                    In addition to avoiding mosquitos (using repellant), I am to take Malarone (generic is Atovaquone-Proguanil) 1 day before arriving in Belem, Indonesia and India, and continuing for 7 days after leaving these places. These were the locations my doctor was concerned about on our itinerary. He said this was the most expensive of the available meds, but one alternative, Doxycycline, requires a much longer dose, and another presents the risk of adverse reactions like suicide. All the agents can be studied on the CDC web site here:
http://wwwnc.cdc.gov/travel/yellowbook/2012/chapter-3-infectious-diseases-related-to-travel/malaria.htm#1975.  And, as it turns out, the Malarone generic was only $11.80 (my insurance must have picked up most of the cost)
          • Ciprofloxacin (Cipro) for Traveler's Diarrhea: My doctor routinely prescribes this "just in case".  I only got one course (2 pills a day X 5 days), so let's hope I don't need it once, let alone twice!  This was only $4.75.
          • Transderm Patches for Motion Sickness:  I was told these patches are "the best" way to prevent motion sickness.  Since we're on a mid-sized ship, headed to some rough places (e.g., Cape Horn), I thought it best not to rely on Dramamine.  These were the most expensive, costing $48.20 for 4 patches (each lasting up to 3 days).  That's $4/day not to find myself praying to the Porcelain God - worth it, I'd say!

THE COSTS
          Here were the costs of these immunizations:
                    Hep A+B Combo - $107 (Dose 1), $132 (Dose 2)
                    Flu - $55
                    Polio booster w/IPV - $42
                    Tdap - $48
                    Typhoid oral vaccine - $60
                    Yellow fever - $105
                    Travel consult - $68
                            Total - $617
          For the meds, I paid a total of $64.76.


Update:  In a letter, just received today (10/17/11) from HAL, the cruise line tells us "At the time of publication, no specific vaccinations were required for this sailing."  Really?!  I'll rely on the CDC guidelines, which say yellow fever immunization is required for travel to tropical South America (we're going to the Amazon, Iguazu Falls in the jungle, etc.).

"VISA" - NOT JUST A CREDIT CARD!

Another peculiarity about a “world” cruise is the need for travel visas. I’d been to Italy, Mexico, Canada, and certain foreign territories in the Carribean. None of these countries required a “visa” to enter. So how do I know which countries require them, and how to get them? This has proved a confusing process, with inconsistent information given along the way . . . but I think I've finally figured it out!

HOLLAND AMERICA PROMOTES ZIERER VISA SERVICE
          Holland America Line (“HAL”)’s web site tells us that “Some countries require that you obtain official authorization (called a visa), before entering their country. Usually, there is a fee required. You are responsible for obtaining any necessary visas.” For questions about visa requirements, they refer us to Zierer Visa Service at http://zvs.com/tourkits.php. There, we read that "Holland America Line is pleased to offer its customers the expertise and experience of ZVS, the fast and easy way to obtain a visa, passport and other documents for travel anywhere in the world. You have been directed to this website to get the ZVS Visa Application Kit you will need to complete to obtain a travel visa for your upcoming trip.” Plainly, HAL is promoting ZVS.

          My travel agent told me HAL would send out a “visa packet” 90 days before we travel, but it didn't arrive until 10/17 (80 days out).  I had already ordered my visas on my own by that point ... .  The packet only included forms for ZVS, without mention of any other visa service provider.

BRAZILLIAN TRAVEL VISA

ZVS' WEB SITE SAYS HAL WILL HELP WITH SEVERAL VISAS ON BOARD IF TAKING HAL EXCURSIONS, BUT THIS TURNS OUT TO BE MISLEADING
          The ZVS web site (cited above) only suggests that we complete their applications for Brazil and India now, adding, “If you do not see your ... destination country your cruise line may be obtaining the visa on your behalf.” A linked page adds that “US Passport Holders can obtain visas for the following destinations onboard ship if you are participating on a Holland America shore excursion: Australia, Vietnam, ... Egypt, ... Indonesia, ....” This suggests HAL will NOT obtain visas for us onboard if we are NOT “participating on a Holland America shore excursion” in these locations.  So I ordered them on my own -- only to find out later (based on a letter from travel agent Cruise Specialists) that "Visas or permits for the following countries will be obtained by Holland America Line and any charges for them will be billed to your shipboard account:  Indonesia, Vietnam, Sri Lanka and Egypt."  Their letter doesn't mention how much HAL will charge, nor does ZVS' web site.  They do say an Australian ETA may be purchased on board for $35, or $25 through Cruise Specialists prior to sailing (in fact, it only costs $20AUD and is extremely easy to obtain directly from the Australian web site - below).  And then, alas, I find a letter from HAL, buried in the package, which does give HAL's costs.

COUNTRIES REQUIRING VISAS
          So, I'd been told I was responsible for getting my own visas, and that HAL wouldn't get them for me.   I'd been told HAL would charge, e.g., $35 for what only costs $20AUD for the Australian ETA.  To be safe, I decided to get my own visas before we leave. But first, I had to determine which of our destination countries require visas. Unfortunately, HAL’s web site does not provide this information. ZVS’ web site has a “Visas” page, http://zvs.com/visas.php , where I could (and did) look up each destination country. There, I learned that visas are required for:
          Brazil
          Australia (an ETA/Electronic Travel Authority is required)
          Indonesia
          Vietnam
          India
          Egypt

          For Argentina, a Visa is not required, but US nationals must pay a “reciprocity fee” of $140 to enter (apparently, the US charges Argentinians $140 to enter the US). According to ZVS' web site, a Visa is not required for Sri Lanka, so Cruise Specialists' letter, saying HAL will get the visa for Sri Lanka, was confusing.  In its much-anticipated letter, HAL explains that it will get US nationals a "landing endorsement" (not a visa) for Sri Lanka free of charge.

 HOW TO GET THE VISAS
          Okay, so we need visas for 5 countries and an ETA for Australia.

AUSTRALIAN VISA

           ETA for Australia
          The easiest and cheapest one to obtain was the ETA (Electronic Travel Authority) for Australia. Just go to http://www.eta.immi.gov.au/ .  I looked into two Australian visas that were inappropriate (an "eVisitor", which is a free, but only available to Europeans, and an e676 tourist visa, which costs $110 and is good for Americans - but unnecessary if only staying in Australia for "up to 3 months").
          You just need your Passport and a credit card (the "other Visa").  It's free, except for a $20AUD fee charged by iVisa Services, which processes the payment. You instantly get a reference number for inquiries and a confirmation that your ETA has been recorded in their database. It says it will be available for checking by Australian immigration authorities upon arrival to Australia, and we do not need a visa label in our passport. (It goes into their system and is there to be checked when we arrive.)
          The ETA doesn't expire for a year and is good for up to 3 months, plenty of time to cover our 2.5 days in Sydney and 2.5 days in Cairns. It's good for multiple entries into Australia. IF you want to stay for longer than 30 days at a time, then you can still apply (and pay the $110 fee for) the e676 ordinary Visa.  There is no need to pay $25 to the TA or $35 to HAL!
          **Update:  Another traveler posted this link, where they claim to provide the ETA for only $10.99:  http://easyeta.com/australian-visa/select.html


EGYPT VISA

           Other Visas
          Instead of using ZVS, I decided to try a service recommended by a fellow traveler, who posts on Cruise Critic: A Briggs Passport & Visa Expeditors. The application forms can be found and completed/printed at www.abriggs.com/order_form_nu/ .  You follow the instructions, fill out the forms and send them (with your passport) to A Briggs. They put the visas right into your passport.  Their costs (all for multiple entry), were:
          Brazil - $160
          Indonesia - $100
          Vietnam - $150
          India - $76
          Egypt - $15
                    Service fees - $435 ($55 X 3, $135 X 2)
                    Shipping - $58
                    Check writing - $25
                    Total - $1,019

          Then I got HAL's letter, saying we can obtain visas on board for Indonesia for $50, Vietnam for $45 and Egypt for free.  I promptly cancelled my A Briggs requests for Egypt, Indonesia and Vietnam and was refunded my money for these three.  The total cost for Brazil and India only was $414.  I later had to add-back Egypt, because the "quick stamp" that HAL was providing doesn't work for us, since we're flying to Cairo, seeing the Pyramids, and then flying to Athens from there.  Add back $75 for an Egyptian Visa ($15 + $55 service fee + $5 check writing fee).  What a confusing labyrinth this all is!

THE BOTTOM LINE:  (1) Get your Australian ETA directly from one of the sites referenced above; (2) get your India and Brazil Visas in advance, either from ZVS, A Briggs or another visa service provider, and (3) wait and get the rest (Egypt, Indonesia, Vietnam, and the Sri Lanka "landing endorsement") on board, as they're cheaper through HAL -- unless you're taking an overland excursion in China and/or Egypt, in which case you'll need Visas for these locations as well!  Why didn't someone just say this - long ago??

CONTACT INFORMATION FOR BRAZIL AND INDIA VISA APPLICATIONS
          I also just learned on 10/17/11 (via an e-mail from a HAL World Cruise rep.) that passengers "MUST" put the following contact information on their visa forms, or they will be denied (we cannot just put the ship as our address in India and Brazil):
          India:
               J.M. Baxi & Co.
               Godrej Coliseum Phase-2 "C" Wing
               Office No. 801, 8th Floor
               Mumbai, India  400 022
          Brazil:
               Iss Marine Services Ltda. (Rio)
               Rua Conselheiro Saraiva 28/4º ANDAR Centro
               Rio de Janeiro-RJ  20091-030 Brazil

Unfortunately, I didn't know this when I sent in my applications, but it turns out this wasn't fatal.  I didn't use the "right" addresses, and my visas are going through just fine.   Whew!

PACKING FOR 4-MONTH CRUISE: THE PLAN

Imagine being gone for four (4) months -- not a week or two, but four (4) months!  Destinations include some of the warmest "monsoon" climates, and "the" coldest climate on Earth (Antarctica)!  We must dress for casual, "smart casual" and formal occasions.  We need materials to occupy our minds during "down" times. . . . Some things can be sent with the delivery service a week before we go (as it turns out, 16 suitcases, boxes and bags-worth), but valuables and last minute items must come with us on our flight.

Needless to say, some thought and planning are required.  I have, therefore, devised this all-important PACKING "PLAN":

LARGE SUITCASES AND WARDROBE BOXES - BEING DELIVERED WEEK BEFORE CRUISE
          • Ashtray/s ✓
          • Umbrella ✓
          • Bottle opener (to open Coronas) ✓
          • Small knife (to cut limes) ✓
          • Small cutting board (to cut limes) ✓
          • 2 mugs for drinks ✓
          • Travel health kit:
                    • Small first aid kit ✓
                    • Aleve ✓
                    • Meds. for motion sickness:  OTC/Dramamine (✓) and prescription/patches (✓)
                    • Pepto Bismol (ik); let's hope we don't need this ✓
                    • Airborne ✓
                    • Meds. for traveler’s diarrhea:  OTC (✓) and prescription/Cipro (✓)
                    • Prophylactic meds. to avoiding contracting malaria/Malarone (✓)
                    • Hydrogen Peroxide ✓
                    • Neosporin ✓
                    • Insect repellant ✓
                    • Sunscreen (50+ spf) ✓
                    • Hand sanitizer ✓
                    • Cold medicine/s ✓
                    • Sleep aids ✓
                    • Shoes:
                         • 2 pairs walking shoes ✓
                         • Sandals or rubber-soled shoes ✓
                         • Formal shoes ✓ - Jimmy Choo-hoo!!

                        • Warm black boots ✓
          • Closet shoe bags/hangers ✓
          • Black and white panty hose, tights and thigh-highs ✓
          • Socks ✓
          • Hat/s or cap/s, incl. a warm hat ✓
          • Beach towels ✓
          • Clothes:
                    • Formal nights:
                              • Formal gowns ✓
                              • Cocktail dresses ✓
                              • Suits ✓
                    • Comfortable/relaxed/casual clothing:
                              • Shorts ✓
                              • Jeans ✓
                              • Shirts ✓
                              • Undies, bras, sleep wear ✓
                              • T-shirt/s for snorkeling ✓
                    • “Smart casual”: casual dresses/slacks/blouses ✓
                    • Raincoat ✓
                    • Warm coat ✓
                    • Warm gloves ✓
                    • Long underwear ✓
                    • Swim suit/s and gear; cover-ups ✓
                              • Water shoes ✓
                    • Workout gear ✓
                    • Beach bag ✓
          • Extra cloths hangers ✓
          • Bags for dirty laundry ✓
          • Lint rollers ✓
          • Clothes pins/clips (to keep drapes shut & towel/s on lounge chair) ✓
          • Materials to study family law:
                    • Family Code ✓
                    • Family Law Practice Guide ✓
                    • Witkin materials on family law ✓
                    • AFLC materials ✓
          • Grandma book ✓
          • Binders:  Shore excursions and travel calendar/itinerary ✓
          • Photo scanner ✓
          • Surge protector/multi-plug ✓
          • Small travel printer and paper ✓
          • Bowling ball/shoes/bag ✓
          • Scotch, masking, duct & packing tape ✓
          • Small tool kit ✓
          • Stapler  ✓
          • Rubber bands and paper clips  ✓
          • Pens, scissors, permanent marker, yellow pads ✓
          • Safety pins ✓
          • Cosmetics and hair care products:
                    • Makeup and skin care products ✓
                    • Shampoos, conditioners ✓
                    • Infusium for hair ✓
                    • Soap (✓), lotion (✓), deodorant (✓), perfume (✓)
                    • Toothpaste and floss (✓)
          • Flashlight ✓
          • Glad bags - different sizes ✓
          • Pinochle cards ✓

SMALL SUITCASE/S - CHECKING ON PLANE
          • Clothes I need week before cruise ✓
          • Cameras ✓
          • Laptop computer ✓
          • Cords to charge cell phones ✓
          • iPod and Bose speaker station ✓
          • Binoculars ✓
          • DVD’s/Movies, incl. Evita, Australia, Rio, etc. ✓

SMALL TRAVEL CASE/S - CARRYING ONTO PLANE
          • Travel documents:
                    • Airline tickets ✓
                    • Passport and Visas ✓
                    • Travel and health insurance documentation ✓
                    • “Express documents containing your cruise contract” ✓
                    • Boarding pass ✓
          • Immunization certification/s ✓
          • Eyeglasses: reg., reading + sunglasses ✓
          • Eyeglass prescription ✓
          • Jewelry ✓
          • Noise-blocking headphones ✓
          • Small travel blanket ✓

PURSE - CARRYING ONTO PLANE
          • Photo ID/Dr. Lic. ✓
          • Debit and credit card/s ✓
          • Checks ✓
          • Cash - US currency only ✓
          • Cell phones ✓

THE COST - FOR TWO (Updated 10/24/11)

Okay, so what's this Soiree going to cost? Here's the tally thus far ($113,192.74 and counting ... for two):

• The Cruise Itself
          • $66,148 to Holland America - for Verandah suite (category BB in HAL-speak), double occupancy (includes 3% discount for early pymt. in full)

• Travel to/from Ft. Lauderdale
          • $3,278.50 for 2 first class, round-trip airline tickets, San Diego to Ft. Lauderdale

• Shore Excursions and Overland Trips:  $19,093.89 Total
          • Holland America:  $7,186 ($2,882 + $4,326 + $298 - $138 + $318 + $1,452 + $1,796 - $3,976 in refunds/tours booked elsewhere + $228)
          • Roseau:  $122 for snorkeling and touring
          • Iguazu Falls: $1,618 for flights/tour of falls from Buenos Aires
          • Montevideo, Uruguay: $396 for private tour of Punta del Este for 2
          • Falkland Islands:  $468 for penguin tour
          • Bridge Climb, Sydney:  $476.47 ($454AUD) + $14.29 bank/foreign trans. fee = $490.76
          • Cairns/Great Barrier Reef:  $325.03 ($330AUD) + $9.75 bank/foreign trans. fee = $334.78 for luxury catamaran to outer reef for snorkeling
          • Ho Chi Minh City:  $156 for day trip
          • Skyrail Cableway and train, Cairns:  $332.06 ($314AUD) + $9.96 bank/foreign trans. fee = $342.02
          • Taj Mahal:  $1,099 for flights around India, $328.20 for hotel X 2 nights in Agra, India, and $242.19 + $7.26 bank/ foreign trans. fee - for English-speaking tour guide and transportation around India = $1,676.65
          • Egypt (to Athens):  $655.60 for flights from Sharm el Sheikh to Cairo, Egypt, on to Athens, Greece, $93.75 for hotel in Sharm El Sheikh on 4/6/12, $161.61 for hotel in Cairo on 4/7/12, $194.30 for hotel in Athens on 4/8/12, and $720 (tours) + $144 (tips) to Ramses Travel Co. of Egypt for tours and transportation around Egypt (in Sharm - to Mt. Sinai & Beduin dinner; in Cairo - to Pyramids/Sphinx, etc. & 5-star dinner cruise; paying there) = $1,969.26
          • Capri:  $756.50 (550 Euros) for day trip (am by sea, afternoon by land)
          • Athens:  $377.33 ($302.14 for Delphi day tour from Athens, $70.24 for Hop On Hop Off Piraeus & Athens Bus Tour, and $4.95 processing fee), plus $15 for travel insurance = $392.33
          • Barcelona and Seville: $821.27 (118 Euros for Barcelona Highlights, 132 Euros for Flamenco Show/dinner, 170 Euros for Costa Brava and Girona day tour, and 158 Euros for Cadiz to Seville day tour, plus 14 Euro processing fee), plus $12.32 bank/foreign trans. fee = $833.59
          • Other Tips for Shore Excursions:  $2,352

• Onboard Expenses - Paid to Holland America:  $7,977.05 Total
          • $784.05 for drink value cards, wine tasting pkg., b-day dinner for Bill at Pinnacle Grill
          • $50 for Valentine's dinner at Pinnacle Grill (Bill paid)
             • $423 for initial 2 spa treatments, plus mani and pedi for Sondra
          • $6,720 for deposit required (per person) for onboard purchases ($3,360 each)

• Miscellaneous/Incidentals:  $6,264.11 Total
          • $4,815 for travel insurance
          • $45.40 ($13+$32.40) for multiple passport photos for Sondra (for passport and visas)
          • $182.72 for Sondra's expedited Passport renewal
          • $30.93 to FedEx check to Holland America
          • $19.30 ($20AUD) to iVisa Services for Sondra's Australian ETA
          • $489 to A Briggs Passport Services - for Sondra's Visas for Brazil, India and Egypt
          • $617 to medical group for immunizations (yellow fever, typhoid, Hep A+B [combo/series of 3], Tdap, Polio booster and influenza/flu)
          • $64.76 to pharmacy for prescription travel meds

• Sondra's Goods, Supplies and Equipment:  $10,431.19 Total
(Bill isn't keeping track of his)
          • $1,027.95 for 3 pairs of prescription sunglasses (with accessories)
          • $289.84 for 2 pairs of comfortable walking shoes (and socks)
          • $365.27 for new cell phone with international calling capability (with accessories)
          • $848 for new luggage
          • $1,601.79 for new Canon camera and accessories
          • $524.96 for Sony waterproof digital camera and accessories
          • $8.13 for 3 ashtrays and bottle opener
          • $71.08 for movies about Earth
          • $49.50 for small cutting board and 2 drink mugs
          • $42.17 for warm black boots
          • $218.25 for cocktail dress, workout clothes, sleepwear, undies
          • $888 for 2 formal gowns and 1 cocktail dress
          • $160.79 for sleepwear, trip-related DVD's, various meds., sunscreens, etc.
          • $1,012.64 for 4 pairs of formal shoes, including Jimmy Choo "Champagne Glitter" pumps!
          • $21.52 for 3 pairs black pantyhose (yuk)
          • $215.49 for a Canon 9000 photo scanner (so we can scan paper photos and upload to blog/FB!)
          • $1,907.90 ($633.57 + $1,274.33) for jewelry to go with formal gowns
          • $42 for surge protector (8 outlets) for room
          • $203.65 for Aveda shampoos and conditioners for trip
          • $75.98 for small printer and paper for trip
          • $41.75 for containers to carry jewelry
          • $116.29 for thigh-highs, mittens, warm hat, long underwear and Adidas sandals
          • $222.13 for personalized map of the world
          • $151.90 for overdoor shoe organizer, charcoal sachets & triple laundry bag stand (and bags)
          • $42.68 for small tool set
          • $79.60 for Pinocle cards, paper clips, rubber bands, stapler, Scotch tape, Melatonin & sleep aid
          • $81.63 for lotions, soap, deodorant, cold meds., travel size stuff and accessories, Infusium and floss
          • $90.14 for food storage bags, candles, tampons, hair clips, safety pins, and scotch tape to remove fur
          • $30.16 for a weather clock

and counting ...